Raja Ombak, Surfer’s Mag
Photo by Lara Freiburger
Surfer. At first sight the perfect human embodiment of freedom, coolness and individuality.
But people who just associate sunnyboys, surferchics and hang loose with this sport are terribly mistaken.
There is much more meaning behind wave surfing. Surfing is not cool - not only. The Surfers seem to live the dream, distant from every responsibility.
But ahead of all it is the feeling to sense every day, every second, every moment. The motivation of the different people to align their lifes towards this
sport varies, but it’s not rare that those people often leave their home countries and families behind. But in the end, the bottom line of
all those different stories is always the same: It won’t work without anymore.
There’s no going back. One craves more.
A documentary about people who dedicated their lifes to surfing.
2016, book project & published by Surfer’s Mag,
Lost Magazine & DRIFT SURFING Magazine
